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In a Pinch

Joan Olkowski

It's so common and essential: a building block of all organisms. It is a monetary unit and method of preservation, it has biblical bearings and is a measure of worth, and when it rains it will pour. It is salt.

Most pay little attention to this condiment except for doctors who warn against its overuse. Indeed, for years salt has been regarded as a taboo. But, now to delight of the epicurean and the benefit of the health-savvy, a growing trend among chefs is “brining” salt into the spotlight.

The trend is not to consume more salt but to access more flavor from a mere pinch. How? Through the use of gourmet, or finishing, salts. These are artesian sea salts that have been hand-harvested using ancient methods such as wooden rakes or clay trays. These salts have unique consistencies that have become highly desired for the extra flavor a texture they add to dishes. They have a crystal compound that is more complicated and coarser than simple table salt. Because of this they don't melt immediately and add a nice crunch to a dish (salmon or tofu, for instance).

Table Salt is the most commonly used salt. It is mined then processed to achieve its pure white color.  It is fine-grained and often has iodine added to prevent caking. 

Kosher Salt is regular salt that has larger flakes so it does not need the addition of iodine. It is named for its use in the preparation of meat according the requirements of Jewish dietary guidelines. Because of the shape of the flakes, a pinch of kosher salt is less than a pinch of table salt. This salt is most commonly used on pretzels and on the rims of margarita salts.

Sea Salt is actually a classification generally indicating an unrefined salt derived directly from a living ocean or sea. The most common sources for sea salt include the Mediterranean Sea , the North Sea , and the Atlantic Ocean.

•  Of these sea salts there is Flake Sea Salt . It is made by evaporating seawaters in an evaporating pan through the natural processes of sun and wind. The brine that is produced is slowly heated to the point where delicate pyramid-shaped crystals of salt appear. It is a light crystal reminiscent of snowflakes. (Pacificsalt Flaky Sea Salt - $5.99)

•  Fleur de sel (flower of sea) is the premier sea salt. True fleur de sel comes from the Guerande region of France . It is a compound of small creamy white crystals that form naturally on the surface of salt-evaporation ponds. They are hand-harvested under specific weather conditions by traditional "Paludiers" (salt farmers) by hand raking the surface of salt marshes. The exquisite fine moist granules are rich in trace elements and heighten the flavor of dishes for the pleasure of your taste buds. (Le Pallaudier's Fleur de Sel de Guerande - $9.99)

•  Gray Salt is a “moist” unrefined sea salt usually found on the coastal areas of France . It is light gray with a pale purple hue that comes from the clay found is the salt flats. Many cooks consider it the best salt available in the mainstream culinary world.

•  Italian Sea Salt is produced from the low waters of the Mediterranean Sea along the coast of Sicily . It is naturally rich in iodine, fluorine, magnesium and potassium and has a much lower percentage of sodium chloride than regular table salt. These salts have a delicate taste without being too strong or salty.

•  La Baleine is a naturally evaporated sea salt from France . These crystals crunch satisfyingly between your teeth and dissolves quickly. It is available in "gros" (coarse for grinding) or "fin" (fine for shaking out of a shaker). ($.99-$1.50)

•  Maldon Sea Salt has unique pyramid-shaped salt crystals that are fragile enough to crumble easily between the fingers and have a totally different taste from the regular grains of table salt. Maldon salt is milder and has the flavor of sea spray and is free from the chemical tang of common salt. Unlike most salts containing additives to stop them caking in damp weather, Maldon Salt is a completely natural product, retaining valuable seawater trace elements. (Maldon Salt - $5.99)

•  Marlborough Sea Salt is harvested from the deep clear waters of the great southern oceans that sweep through Cook Strait between New Zealand 's North and South Islands and into the solar salt field. These waters are evaporated using the natural process of sun and wind. At the end of each summer Pacific Natural Sea Salt is gathered so as to maintain the balance of minerals present in salt harvested from the sea. ( Marlborough Pacific Natural Sea Salt - $9.99)

•  Black Sea Salt is an unrefined mineral salt that has a pearly pinkish gray appearance and a strong sulfuric flavor. It comes from the Black Sea and is produced in Varna , Bulgaria and valued for use in Indian cooking as a condiment or added to chaats, chutneys, raitas and many other savory Indian snacks. (D'Allasandro - $4.50)

•  Smoked Sea Salts are just gaining ground in the United States . They are naturally smoked over real wood fires to infuse the salt crystals with a natural smoke flavor. This gives the foods it's added to an authentic smokehouse flavor. Smoked Sea Salt is great on grilled meat and vegetables, or in Bloody Marys. (D'Allasandro - $4.50)

Pink salt is very unique and has several different sources.

•  Himalayan Pink Salt is an unrefined salt that comes from in the Himalayan Mountains at altitudes of over 10,000 feet. This is a fossil marine salt and is rich in many minerals including Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Copper and Iron. These minerals give the salt its beautiful speckled pink color. ( Himalayan Pink Salt - $10.50)

•  Pink salt also originates from Australia from underground brines. These brines contain a red pigment called carotene that is secreted from salt-tolerant algae. By utilizing these waters the environment is improved and a beautiful salt is produced. The crystals melt quickly and evenly making it ideal for cooking and baking.

•  The third type of pink salt and comes from Hawaii . A natural mineral called "Alaea" (volcanic baked red clay) is added to enrich the salt with iron oxide. This natural additive is what gives the salt its distinctive pink color. The clay imparts a subtle flavor that is said to be mellower than regular sea salt. It adds depth and complexity to savory dishes with its earthiness. (D'Allasadro - $4.50)

Grinder Salts are large, dry crystals suitable for a salt mill or grinder. The white salt crystals are easy to grind in mills and the lower moisture content allows the salt to flow through with little trouble. (Le Ricette di Angelo makes a Pepper & Salt mix specifically designed to combine the two table condiments in the same grinder - $12.50)

For the greatest salt experience, Chef Stefan Czapalay offers a sampling tour of the Salts of the World . These salts are not meant to flavor large pots of boiling water. This collection turns back to time when salt was regarded as a precious mineral, a sentiment carried on today by chefs worldwide. Czapalay's collection of gourmet salts are available in two sizes: Chef & Epicurean.

The Chef's Salt Collection ($29.99) contains ten half-ounce vials of the precious salts including Korean sea, Hawaiian red clay, Fleur de Sel, Celtic sea, Kosher, Sel Gris and South African sea. Serious salt connoisseurs should opt for the Epicurean Salt Collection ($75.00), which includes one-ounce portions of fifteen salts, such as Peruvian pink sea, Australian flake and Hawaiian black lava. Use these to finish foods, which will reveal the independent textures of the salts and some of their unique mineral characteristics.

Innovative chefs are starting to blend classic sea salt other herbs and spices. Le Pere Pelletier offers three carefully selected and beautifully packaged sea salts combined with herbs and peppers. They are boxed in wooden cubes that contain Butcher, Gardener, and Fisher Salts . These salts are mixed with certain herbs to attain the purpose its title gives. The butcher salt is combined with rosemary, thyme, sage, and marjoram. The fisher salt, which elevates the flavor of seafood, has marjoram, fennel, thyme, savory, and sage. The Gardener salt contains parsley, garlic, tarragon, chervil, and is great with all vegetables. ($14.99)

Coastal Goods has raised the bar on mass-produced seasoned salts to create six extraordinary single-flavor Mediterranean Sea salt blends. From the traditional (celery, garlic, lemon) to the delightfully unexpected (autumnberry, lavender, mushroom, sea smoke), these premium salts will find their way into all of your favorite recipes. ($5.50)

With this in mind, I hope this inspires some experimentation and fosters new views on simple seasoning of salt. “Add salt to taste” is the challenge of the epicurean: test the briny waters with the possibilities available – they're worth their salt!



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