Real Detroit Article
April 19, 1999

*This is a two-part series on Rose wines.
Check our article next week for information on Rose Champagne.

The Rose Mystery

What is a rose, really? I hate to be blush, but true rose wine is a far more interesting and well-made product than the many offerings of mild sticky-sweet White Zinfandels that we see on grocery store shelves

Rose wines are colored various shades of pink: From the eye of a swan to the eye of a hangover. However, true rose is no less complex than any other wines. It is a special product that owes its soft pastel color to limited contact with grape skins during fermentation.

We are quite pleased with the great number of people who have been introduced into the world of wine through the rivers of semi-dry white zinfandel, but it is time to move on, step up, and slap some good roses on those newly initiated taste buds. Traditionally, rose wines are dry with an occasional hint of sweetness

In France, the region most famous for rose is Provence. There is local demand for a dry wine that is refreshing enough to drink on a hot summer's day, but still bearing some semblance to the red wine so beloved by the French. The solution in Provence and also the Loire Valley (particularly around Anjou) has been various levels of semidry and dry blush wine. You will see them described as "Rose de la Loire," Vin Gris, or wines of Methode de Saignee. Wines of the latter method are rumored to have begun in Burgundy because in order to strengthen a lot of Pinot Noir (which can typically be a lighter wine) the winemaker would press off the some of the first juice from the crush to increase the skin to juice ratio. This would thus produce a more intense Pinot Noir. They would then bottle their rose under the Saignee or "bleeding" method

Spain also takes pride in pink wine as seriously as most other countries. We at Merchant's just love them and await their discovery by all of you. Dependent on the intensity of color, they are named Rosado for lighter pink wine or Clarete for dark pink. Spanish Rose flaunts soft raspberry fruit aromas with a solid body and little acidity or sharpness. In Rioja, the most reknowned region of Spain, winemakers harvest extra Tempranillo and Grenacha because these two varietals lend a soft fruitiness that is ideal for rose.

California has recently climbed to the forefront of rose production out of premium varietals such as Pinot Noir, Cabernet, and Merlot. These wines often reveal the charming side of their red counterparts. Such roses delightfully accompany summer picnic dishes like cold chicken salads, sandwiches, and cheese and crackers. The also work well with Indian, Thai, and Asian foods (especially the sweeter styles) and honeyed ham.

Start your rose exploration with some of the following wines.

La Vielle Ferme Rose
Rhone Valley, France
Marques de C ceres Rose Rioja, Spain
Saintsbury Vin Gris Carneros, California
Cline Cetes D'Oakley Vin Gris California
Beringer Rose de Saignee California