Putting the Zing in Summer
Click here for June's Wine List

Is the oppressive heat and humidity of summer dragging you down? Maybe it's time to lighten up and invigorate yourself with a refreshing glass of wine. Some wines have a tendency to be a little heavy in the summer. It's a little difficult to swallow a heavy cabernet, merlot, or Barolo during a backyard barbeque. The wines that seem to be most palatable during the sweltering heat are generally lighter bodied and have higher levels of acidity. Acidity is a very important component in a wine.

Acidity provides that gentle, refreshing “zing” on the tongue. Wines that grow in cooler climates generally have higher acidity levels than those that grow in hotter climates. Most of the better developed wines come from regions in which the days are warm, but the nights are cool. These cooler nights help keep the alcohol levels down and the acidity levels higher. Without the warm days, however, the grapes develop more slowly and the acidity levels would be much too high. Certain regions and grapes are known for higher acidity. Germany, Burgundy, Champagne, Oregon, and New Zealand are just a few of the broad regions from which some of these higher-acid wines originate. Certain grapes also naturally have or handle acidity well. Some of these grapes include sauvignon blanc, riesling, pinot gris, pinot noir, barbera, and dolcetto.

Without acidity wines would be cloying, heavy, and almost syrupy on the palate. The acidity is needed to provide that refreshing character to a wine. It would be difficult to drink a higher alcohol, lower acid wine on a hot summer day because your palate would be clobbered with alcohol, tannins, and sugars. Theoretically it's similar to having a salad with a light vinaigrette as compared to a heavy dressing such as Ranch. The acidity brightens the other flavors in the wine and compliments the foods you are eating better. The acidity in a wine compliments the bright, tangy, and fresh components in light summer fare. It compliments seafood and poultry very well, especially if citrus, other fruits, or vinegars are in play. A light ceviche would be perfectly complimented by a light refreshing sauvignon blanc or melond de Bourgogne, but would be suffocated by a fat chardonnay or a heavy red.

The four naturally occurring acids found in wine are citric, tartaric, malic, and lactic. Citric acids are generally most evident in grapes such as sauvignon blanc and chenin blanc and they do express notes of citrus as the name implies. This is the same type of acid found in citrus fruits. Tartaric acid is the same acid that is used to make baking powder and cream of tartar. Malic acid is also found in fruits such as apples, cherries, and tomatoes. Malic acid in a wine is actually often expressed in a white wine through apple or pear characteristics in riesling or chardonnay for example. Lactic acid is the same acid found in milk. Through a natural conversion process malic acid often converts to lactic acid bringing about creamy, buttery notes in a wine. While this is exhibited in both red and whites it is most clearly evident in fat, buttery chardonnays. The citric and malic acids are most important in the summer as they provide the most refreshing characteristics.

Perhaps the most important thing about acidity in a wine is that it's the refreshing “zing” that makes you want to have a second, third, and more sips. Ice cold lemonade is refreshing as can be in the summer, but sugar syrup is just not a palatable idea. It's the refreshing acidity of the lemon that refreshes and quenches. The sugar balances with the acidty to make it less tart or sour. It's very important that there is this balance to make a wine drinkable and enjoyable. This summer try something a lighter-bodied, refreshing, higher-acid white or red and quench your soul. Chill the whites (acidity likes the cold) and even the reds if you want to. Lighten up…it's summer. Chill out and relax with some of these recommendations…

Laurent Perrier Brut Champagne NV
$39.99

Champagne is always a true champion of acidity and the Laurent Perrier is delicious with notes of apple, pear, citrus, and brioche. Fantastic with just about anything, but try it with gazpacho, Asian fare, or just by itself for the sake of enjoying fine Champagne.

www.laurentperrierus.com

Jaillance Cuvee de l'Abbaye Brut Cremant de Bordeaux
$19.99

This unique sparkling Bordeaux is made from 100% semillon grapes and is delightfully light and refreshing with subtle grapefruit notes. This delicate wine has a creamy mousse and a beautiful pale yellow color. Fantastic with crab cakes, fried oysters, or crab legs.

www.jaillance.com

2004 Amphibolite Nature Muscadet Sevre et Maine
$11.99

This very dry and very refreshing Loire white is organically produced and shows clean, crisp notes of lemon and mineral. This wine is classically paired with oysters on the half shell, but would also compliment sautéed calamari with garlic and sushi.

www.eagleeyeimports.com

2004 Hugues Beaulieu Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet
$7.99

This very dry white actually has similar characteristics to the Muscadet, but comes from the typically warmer Languedoc region. This is the perfect summer refresher when well chilled, but is also a great base for a summer spritzer with a twist of lemon. Try with a clambake, mussels with garlic, or a poached chicken salad with jacamar and orange.

2005 Torzi Matthews Frost Dodger Eden Valley Riesling
$26.99

This very dry limited-production Australian Riesling has delightful notes of lime, mineral, and white flowers. It is crisp and focused with a thirst-quenching citrus explosion. Fantastic with miso-glazed halibut, salmon with ginger and lime, or Vietnamese style chicken with lemongrass.

2004 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre
$24.99

This crisp and refreshing sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley has crisp acidity with notes of lemon, wet stone, lime, and subtle grass. It pairs beautifully with a goat cheese pesto torta, grilled asparagus with chevre, or Chilean sea bass with Yuzu glaze.

2004 Shaw and Smith Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc
$19.99

This is a beautiful unoaked Australian sauvignon blanc from the relatively cool Adelaide Hills region of South Australia. It has notes of citrus and subtle notes of gooseberry and guava. It's a perfect summer sipper with whole fried barramundi with spicy dipping sauce, Mediterranean style octopus salad, or grilled turkey breast with a hoisin glaze.

www.shawandsmith.com

2005 Groth Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc
$15.99

This California sauvignon blanc is both crisp and tropical at the same time. It has traditional notes of citrus, but also has hints of tropical fruit and fig. Great with salmon with and apricot glaze, grilled chicken with a mango salsa, or grilled scallops with a vanilla cream sauce.

www.grothwines.com

2004 Olivier Leflaive Chablis Les Deux Rives
$24.99

This dry, full-bodied chardonnay from Burgundy is layered with notes of lemon cream, mineral, and pear. This is a great example of a long-lived white Burgundy due in part to its higher acidity. Great with roast tarragon chicken, baked monkfish, or Coquille St. Jacques.

www.olivier-leflaive.com

2003 Willamette Valley Vineyards Oregon Pinot Noir
$21.99

This delicious Oregon red has expressive notes of cherry, raspberry, and subtle earth. A great wine to enjoy on the porch with grilled salmon, grilled pork loin, or grilled duck with blueberry glaze.

www.willamettevalleyvineyards.com

Summer Recipes with “Zing”

Ceviche

12 ounces very fresh (sushi-grade) white-fleshed ocean fish, such as grouper, wahoo, sea bass, or red snapper
1/3 cup fresh lime juice
3 tablespoons fresh orange juice
3 tablespoons pineapple juice
1 1/2 tablespoons finely diced serrano pepper
2 tablespoons finely diced yellow bell pepper
2 tablespoons finely diced red bell pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons minced red onion
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 tablespoon good quality extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
8 (3-inch) plantain chips
Lime wedges, for serving

Cut the fish into 1/4-inch dice. Place in a glass dish with the lime juice, orange juice, pineapple juice, peppers, onions, and garlic, tossing to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours, stirring occasionally.

Add the cilantro, olive oil, and salt. Fold gently to mix. Serve ceviche in martini glasses and garnish with fried plantain chips and lime wedges.

Halibut with Ponzu and Lemongrass Sauce

Halibut:
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
4 very fresh halibut fillets, skinless, about 6 ounces each
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
Salt and pepper

Garnish:
1 tomato, diced
2 tablespoons chopped chives

Salad:
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons ponzu
1 shallot, minced
1/2 cup grapeseed oil
4 cups watercress, washed and picked
Salt and pepper

Lemon Rice Pilaf, recipe follows
Lemongrass Sauce, recipe follows

Combine the salt and pepper on a plate large enough to accommodate the fillets. Dip the halibut in the salt and pepper. Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. When the oil shimmers, add the halibut and sear, 4 to 6 minutes per side, until brown

In a medium bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, ponzu, shallot, and grapeseed oil. Toss the vinaigrette with the watercress and season, to taste, with the salt and pepper.

Plating: Place a ring mold on each plate and fill with the rice. Remove the ring and place an even amount of salad on top of each rice mold. Lay a fillet on top of the salad and drizzle the sauce around the plate. Sprinkle the tomatoes and chives on top of the sauce.

Lemon Rice Pilaf:
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1 large onion, diced
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1 tablespoon lemon zest
2 cups jasmine rice
1/2 cup white wine
3 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. When the oil shimmers, add the onion, ginger, and lemon zest and stir-fry until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring until the rice is opaque, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and allow to reduce by 80 percent. Add the chicken stock, cover the rice with foil and place over the lowest heat for 25 to 30 minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork and sprinkle with the parsley.

Lemongrass Sauce:
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
4 tablespoons minced shallot
1 tablespoon chopped lemongrass
4 tablespoons ponzu (can substitute fresh lemon juice)
2 cup chicken stock
4 large artichoke hearts, blanched and slice in 1/8" slices
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper

Heat a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. When the oil shimmers, add the garlic, ginger, shallot, and lemongrass and saute, stirring, until soft, about 3 minutes. Add the ponzu and reduce by 50 percent. Add the chicken stock and reduce again by 50 percent. Puree mixture with immersion blender. Add the artichoke slices and cook several minutes until just tender. Mount the sauce with 2 tablespoons butter and season with salt and pepper.

Miso Ginger Salmon

1/4 cup white miso (fermented soybean paste)
1/4 cup mirin
2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar
2 to 3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons minced green onions
1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
4 salmon fillets, 8 ounces each
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Yuzu juice, for drizzling, optional

Whisk together the miso, mirin, vinegar, soy sauce, green onions, ginger, and sesame oil in a small bowl. Place the salmon in a baking dish, pour the marinade over, and turn to coat. Cover and marinate for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

Heat grill to high. Remove the fish from the marinade and season with salt and pepper. Grill the salmon, skin side down, with the cover closed, until golden brown and a crust has formed, about 3 to 4 minutes. Turn the salmon over and continue grilling for 3 to 4 minutes for medium doneness. Drizzle with a little yuzu juice, if desired, and serve.

Grilled Shrimp with Mango Salsa

Mango Salsa:
2 (4-ounce) tropical fruit cups, drained (about 1 cup)
1 tablespoon fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped
1 scallion, finely chopped
1/2 lime, juiced
1 small jalapeno, ribs removed, seeded and minced
Kosher salt

Shrimp:
24 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
Olive oil cooking spray
1 (8-ounce) bag shredded coconut

Wooden skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

For the mango salsa: Chop drained fruit into small pieces. Combine the fruit and remaining salsa ingredients in a bowl and refrigerate until chilled.

For the shrimp: Place coconut on baking sheet. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes, or until coconut turns light brown. Set aside

Spear 3 shrimp on each bamboo skewer.

Heat a ridged grill pan over medium-high heat and spray with cooking spray. Place shrimp skewers on grill pan. Cook shrimp for 2 minutes per side or until shrimp turns pink. Place shredded coconut on serving plate. Remove shrimp from skewers and place on top of coconut.

Place salsa in a decorative bowl and serve with shrimp skewers immediately